A Sephora-like Beauty Hub For Women of Color is Coming to Dupont Circle - Washingtonian

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A Sephora-like Beauty Hub For Women of Color is Coming to Dupont Circle - Washingtonian


A Sephora-like Beauty Hub For Women of Color is Coming to Dupont Circle - Washingtonian

Posted: 23 Oct 2018 12:00 AM PDT

Kimberly Smith of Marjani Beauty and Amaya Smith of the Product Junkie. Photo courtesy of Brown Beauty Co-Op.

When Kimberly Smith and Amaya Smith talk about why they started their respective businesses, they both tend to use the same key word: frustration. Kimberly Smith is the founder of Marjani Beauty, an online retailer that sells a curated selection of skincare and makeup products for women with darker skin tones. Similarly, Amaya Smith runs a start-up called the Product Junkie that helps women find hair products and tools for natural hair. This winter, the long-time friends—no relation—are teaming up to introduce a new kind of store to Dupont Circle.

Brown Beauty Co-Op aims to bring a mix of skincare, hair, and beauty products for women of color to a 1,000-square foot store at 1365 Connecticut Avenue Northwest. The space is slated to open in December and will feature soothing rose pink tones, evoking a Sephora or Bluemercury-style environment with polished finishes. The pair are going for a modern look that they feel are missing in today's brick-and-mortar market. "We are not a beauty supply," explains Kimberly Smith. "We want it to feel luxurious and high-end."

Patrons will be able to browse a curated selection of products from up-and-coming and established brands at a variety of price points, all designed with darker skin tones in mind, including labels such as Marena Beauty, Hue Noir, Christal Cosmetics, and Joliette by Afrodeity. Designed to better serve and complement darker complexions, these products will range from high-quality foundation, to blushes, eyeshadows, and various lipstick shades. The co-op will predominately stock natural and organic products, which are often more challenging to find for women of color as well. 

Kimberly Smith and Amaya Smith are quick to point out that when they say "brown beauty," it includes all skin tones and ethnicities, not just black women. "We want to be able to serve a lot of other women who are underrepresented in the market like Indian and Latino women," they explain. "It's important to acknowledge there are a lot of similar experiences across cultures."

The boutique will have a salon space for makeup application and hair tutorials, open for both appointments and drop-ins (so you can get a quick touch up on your lunch break). The founders are stacking up the calendar with rotating pop-ups and events as well, positioning the store as a community space where women of color can feel empowered. They also plan to serve as an incubator space for independent beauty companies trying to get a foothold in the local market. The co-founders are hoping that the space will fill a vacuum in DC's beauty scene.

"Having lived and worked here for the past ten years, it has always just surprised me how culturally diverse it is, yet when it comes to beauty, I can still go into stores and not find products for me," says Kimberly Smith. "To me that's quite unbelievable. It's not like we are in middle America. In this region we make up a huge percent of the population at all different levels of socioeconomic status."

The soon-to-be storefront of Brown Beauty Co-Op 1365 Connecticut Avenue Northwest. Photography courtesy of Brown Beauty Co-Op.

Kimberly Smith is originally from Philadelphia and Amaya Smith grew up in Silver Spring. Kimberly Smith has been running Marjani Beauty for two years now, and Amaya Smith is just getting the Product Junkie off the ground, but the collaboration was a natural fit. Putting all the products and options under one roof was key: Rather than schlepping from specialty store to specialty store, they wanted to create a Sephora-style hub, a one-stop shop for all women of color who struggle to find products that actually work for them or address their skin tone in traditional department stores.

"I've gone to the ethnic aisle in Target or CVS… and it is like chaos and comedy in there," says Amaya Smith. "Women of color have always sort of been relegated to this random aisle where people are like picking up paper towels and toilet paper, meanwhile, you're trying to figure out what product works for you. We wanted to create a store that said 'this is for you.' A space that carries beauty products that affirm you and actually meet your needs."

It's not an uncommon experience, of course. Women of color have been pushing for more inclusivity— and representation when it comes to products like foundation shades—for years. The past decade has seen some progress as the fashion and beauty industries finally seem to be taking baby steps towards inclusivity and diversity, terms that have long been given lip-service but have less often seen meaningful realization. This year alone, we've seen the ascent of dark-skinned models like Eniola Abioro and Adut Aket, the ad campaign domination of British model Adwoa Aboah, the reign of Rihanna's Fenty Beauty offering 40 shades, and an increase in representation in the fashion industry—all encouraging signs of a much-needed shift that make Brown Beauty Co-Op feel especially timely. "It's not as white-washed as it was and we are starting to embrace different complexions and tones and cultures being represented," says Kimberly Smith. 

But the founders are focusing on doing the work here on the ground in DC, bringing change to the area in a tangible way so that women of color can pop into the Dupont Circle location for makeup services or a beauty fix on their way to work and know they will find products that work for them. It's not just a social cause—they are part of a booming demographic of black women-owned businesses hoping to harness some of the estimated $1.5 trillion in black spending power by 2021.

"There is the emphasis on black women not just as a consumer but as a driver of consumer trends and dollars and also as a generator of revenue as the largest group to start small businesses. You have this movement of 'black girl magic' where black women are excelling at a lot of different things—business is just one of them—but there is a lot of emphasis on how we grow black consumer brands and businesses and how we invest in them. We are at a really opportune moment with Brown Beauty Co-Op and fulfilling a consumer need that I think has always been there," Amaya Smith explains.

"The girls are wanting it," says Kimberly Smith, referring to the women who have been introduced to the brand on social media and at pop-ups. "They are excited for it because they need it."

Brown Beauty Co-Op; 1365 Connecticut Avenue Northwest, Suite #100; brownbeautyco-op.com.

*Correction: A previous version of this article listed the store address incorrectly as 135 Connecticut Avenue West.

Assistant Editor

Hayley is an Associate Editor at Washingtonian Weddings. Previously she was the the Style Editor at The Local Palate, a Southern food culture magazine based out of Charleston, South Carolina. You can follow her on instagram @wandertaste.

The Best of Beauty Awards of 2019 - GoodHousekeeping.com

Posted: 15 Apr 2019 12:00 AM PDT

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Our Good Housekeeping Institute beauty experts evaluated over 1,000 skincare, hair and makeup products to find which ones really work. From GH Seal stars to breakthrough innovations and the year's hottest picks — here are the top 75 our experts stand behind.

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How We Tested

The Good Housekeeping Institute Beauty Lab's chemists, Ph.D. director, and beauty team experts evaluated thousands of skincare, hair, and makeup products using both consumer and Lab testing with state-of-the-art scientific instruments to find which products on the market really work and stand above the rest. The Good Housekeeping Beauty Awards encompass the Beauty Lab's best-tested products, GH Seal stars, breakthrough innovations, and the year's hottest new picks.

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Image What's Behind the Rise of G-Beauty German skin-care brands are changing the way - New York Times

Posted: 10 Apr 2019 12:00 AM PDT

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CreditRyan Jenq for The New York Times

K-Beauty got us hooked on Korean BB Creams and jelly cleansers. J-Beauty convinced us of the benefits of Japanese essences and sake ingredients. Probably we were bound to grab our beauty passports and move on to another country. And so we did: Now there's G-Beauty.

In the last few years, German beauty brands have begun to inhabit nearly every beauty aisle, including Whole Foods and high-end beauty retailers like Bluemercury.

But unlike, say, K-Beauty, which started as a concerted effort by the Korean government to market Korean brands abroad, G-Beauty is less about pushing novel routines than it is about making clean beauty — a confusing space with many conflicting definitions — more approachable.

"Our customers like that Germany beauty follows the European standards for clean, which automatically means they don't include many toxins," said Jessica Richards, the founder of the influential Brooklyn boutique Shen Beauty. German brands also tend to have fairly minimalist, straightforward packaging, which is a good thing in today's noisy beauty aisles.

Cassandra Grey, the founder of Violet Grey, a luxury beauty retailer in Los Angeles, is even more emphatic. "Customers now look for the Made in Germany stamp on skin-care products the same way we look for the organic sticker on our tomatoes," she said. The three top-selling skin-care lines at her shop are from Germany.

In German beauty, clean, efficacious skin care can mean taking a farm-based, organic approach, as is the case with Weleda, a natural skin-care pioneer with Swiss-German roots that was founded in 1921; and Dr. Hauschka, a natural skin care and cosmetics line that has been around since 1967. Both have had decades to build out their biodynamic farms, labs and manufacturing processes.

"We have a lot of control over our ingredients, which is key for a natural beauty brand," said Rob Keen, the chief executive of Weleda North America. "You don't know where some of these companies are getting their naturals from."

Weleda is experiencing a resurgence in the United States and gaining a cultish following for its classic Skin Food moisturizer ($18.99), a staple for many top makeup artists and, InStyle reports, for Rihanna, Julia Roberts, Victoria Beckham and more.

Last year, sales in the United States were up 19 percent, Mr. Keen said. (According to the market researchers Spins and Nielsen, German natural personal-care brands are up 13 percent in the United States compared with 11 percent for all natural personal-care brands.)

And while the German government is not helping its companies market abroad, "the country truly does support biodynamic farming and this idea of sustainability," said Martina Joseph, the chief executive of Dr. Hauschka Skin Care. "If you look across many different categories and businesses in Germany, it's about quality and ingredient integrity."

For the most demanding clientele, though, the exciting brands are the ones that offer not only clean formulations, but also new science. That includes such German skin-care darlings as Augustinus Bader, Dr. Barbara Sturm and Royal Fern.

Timm Golueke, the dermatologist in Munich who is behind Royal Fern, thinks of his line, which includes an ingredient patented from fern extract, as "marrying wellness with German engineering."

He points out that German brands are particularly transparent. The packaging is clear, the ingredients are laid out simply, and claims are backed up with science (in his case, his patent and decades seeing patients as a dermatologist).

"The patients I see in London and in Germany, they want the same thing," Dr. Golueke said. "They want skin care that works, but they also want things to be nontoxic. That's what German brands are building trust in."

As a retailer, Marla Beck, the co-founder and chief executive of Bluemercury, has bought in. "German beauty is known for science-backed, clean formulas that deliver highly effective results," she said, noting her particular admiration for the Dr. Barbara Sturm Brightening Serum, which features cress sprouts extract as well as shimmer particles that give a glow. (Bluemercury is the largest retailer of the Dr. Barbara Sturm line in the United States.)

Ms. Beck also mentioned the high quality of the ingredients, especially important when customers are shelling out $310 for said brightening serum.

Barbara Sturm, an aesthetic medical doctor in Düsseldorf, became the talk of social media for creating custom-blended creams with blood drawn from the patient. She created her highly regarded line based on the philosophy of eliminating all damaging ingredients.

"Clean beauty, which I take to mean nontoxic, nonirritating and noninflammatory, is at the center of my approach to healing the skin," Dr. Sturm said.

Then there is the professor and scientist Augustinus Bader, who founded his namesake skin-care line two years ago. According to the company, it closed out last year with $6 million in revenue with just two products (moisturizers called the Cream and the Rich Cream). In February the company appointed a new chief executive, Maureen Case, a veteran of Estée Lauder, and has plans to introduce a new product this summer.

Dr. Bader, who has serious science credentials in stem cell research, took years to develop the two products. He approached his formulas from an epigenetics point of view — that is, using ingredients to stimulate repair signals inside the body.

"The stem cells, they work, but they work too slowly," Dr. Bader said. "I thought, 'How can we use the body's own repair mechanisms?' We have some inner clock as our skin ages that shuts down the repair mechanisms. My idea here is you can jump-start skin healing with the right triggers."

"It's a different form of treatment," he said.

A last thought from Dr. Sturm, who, for all of her momentum, cautioned that G-Beauty is a marketing concept and that nationality doesn't tell you if a product is "clean." "Skin care is not the Olympics," she said.


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